1. Does the decal softener assist in dissolving the waterslide decal paper onto the surface that it is applied to? As for washing parts, I always wash all of my runners in warm soapy water before I even start building. Waterslide Decals Cured onto Ceramics, Glass or Metal. I think Testors makes a decal sealer but you can use regular "rattle can" lacquer. Apply the decal. The idea is that the decal will stick much better to a smooth (glossy) surface than a matte one. Apply decals to glossy, painted surfaces only. Once that is cured, the graphic works pretty much like a standard waterslide decal. > If you use decals on any painted surface, you can use a matte finish spray after applying them, to seal both the surface and the decals. Decals don’t stick to bare plastic or metal, period. I actually did test this clear coat on the cap of the Tamiya Spray Can with a decal attached, and it didn't react poorly at all. Both Original Lazertran and Lazertran Inkjet waterslide decals can be baked onto smooth surfaces such as ceramics, glass or metal using your home oven. You pull the backing out and slide it on – hence the name. I want to find a way to really smooth the edges of the decal paper out and create a better adhesion before I cover with a clear enamel top coat. The best way to get decals to adhere is to gloss coat the part first (and that's actually required if you're putting a decal over a painted surface), but they certainly work fine on bare plastic, especially with a setting solution. These decals can be applied to all sorts of surfaces – glass, plastic… How To Seal Vinyl Decals. Waterslide decals cured in a home oven are … You can apply a waterslide decal on most smooth surfaces like my ceramic mug, glass, plastic, or metal. While you will seal the waterslide decal, it is not dishwasher safe. Let it dry, then apply decals, let it dry, then spray a dull coat if desired at the very end. The way I understand it, the decals are printed on decal paper. Plastic model kits, like most toys, were intended to be disposable and had a short life-span by design. A trick the model railroad/plastic kit folks use may also help: spray the area where the decal will go with clear gloss first, then apply the decal and finish with dullcote (as appropriate.) Apply the Sol to the decal area using a Q-tip before applying the decal. > If you are using your decals on glass, ceramics or porcelain, it is recommended that you choose a border for … To protect your decals, go to your local Target and pick up some Pledge with Future floor polish. The decal is applied using water. You can seal these all different ways, depending on what you’re going to use the project for. One thing I'm thinking, though, is that the decals hadn't had 24 hours to dry yet. And they don’t stick well to flat paint. I don't understand. Let’s start with the wooden tray. After the model is complete, use a damp paper towel to GENTLY wipe down the whole model. Brush a little bit of Pledge Floor Care onto the area where the decals will go. We’re using a wood, ceramic, and a plastic material here. Laserjet printers are not as prone to this. Then after the ink dries the printed graphic is sprayed with an aerosol sealer. Give the decal a minute to dry, then apply Micro Set. You can, however, hand wash the decal. , Today we’re going to show you three different methods. For example, MPC decals from the 1970s are notorious for lifting completely from the backing paper, even in dry storage. How can old decals fail? I was thinking of playing around with ink jet printable waterslide decals. The quality of decals varies greatly, either by accident or intentionally. I'm placing them on a plastic surface airbrushed with enamel paint. 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